A photographic and historical view of the city of Derby and its surroundings

Mark Miley

Derby In Pictures

A photographic and historical view of the city of Derby and its surroundings

Mark Miley

Derby In Pictures

City Centre Streets E - H

East Street /Exchange Street

East Street is another of Derby's ancient streets and was, for many years known as Bag Lane. The street first recorded as long ago as 1220 in a charter of the Abbey of Darley and at this time it was known as Baggelon, which can be interpreted as 'beggar lane' an area of poor housing and squalor. This description appears to have remained valid until at least the 19th century and it is thought that the plague began here in 1635. Little appears to have been done to improve the street until it was realigned and metaled in 1789 and drains were laid in 1795. Widened at the end of the 19th century, it acquired its current, unimaginative, name sometime around 1891. Today the street is lined with retail premises and entrances to the Derbion Shopping Centre and the now closed Eagle covered Market.



The building to the rightstarted life as a furniture warehouse, however in the 1930s it was converted into an Art Deco inspired cinema. The facade is made of Portland Stone and features a carving of the Egyptian Winged Isis. For a number of years it was the premises of the Derbyshire Building Society until that company was taken over by Nationwide and many of it's branches, this one included, were closed down. It is now a retail unit

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Below are two views of the old Co-operative Society building on the corner of East Street and Exchange Street.
The Derby Co-operative Society was established in 1850, making it only the third such group in the country, after the Rochdale Pioneers. Originally run from a small unassuming hayloft in George's Yard the Society gradually expanded, opening stores across the town. The success of the group led to them opening the first department store in the city, later moving to the two premises shown here. The imposing and ornate building in the two photos on the left was erected in 1913 to the designs of Alexander Macpherson. Begun in 1912, the building took five years to complete. It has some fine carved stone detailing and this was created by the stone masons of the Co-op funeral Service. The building is no longer occupied by the Co-op, instead providing premises for a number of other smaller retail units on the ground floor. The building on the right was for many years the Co-op department store. Situated on the opposite corner to the previous building it is now the premises of a large furniture retailer

Looking down Exchange Street towards the entrance to the Victorian Market Hall. The 1913 Co-op building can be seen on the right of the picture with the 1928, premises on the left.
Exchange Street, which runs at right angles to East Street, came into existence sometime between 1874 and 1878. It takes its name from the Corn Exchange building which stands at its junction with Albert Street

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The Corn Exchange Building is Grade 2 listed and was built in 1862 by the Corn Exchange Company. Although primarily built for the trading of corn the building was also used for concerts & exhibitions & this continued even after the Company was wound up in 1881. Following WW1 the building was converted into a dance hall, the Palais de Danse which had dances twice a day. This continued until 1929 when the building was taken over by the Derby Evening Telegraph. Since 1981 when the paper moved out the building has been divided into a number of shops & offices as well as a large snooker hall.

Friargate

The current Friargate is, historically, made up of two streets, Nuns green and Friargate, although the latter was originally known as Markeaton Lane. Nuns Green was originally land owned by the nunnery of St Mary De Pratis and included meadows, mills as well as the convent buildings themselves. Friargate takes its name from the friary which had been established there sometime in the 13th century by Augustinian monks.
At the dissolution in the 16th century the area around the Friary was sold off and redeveloped with some of the cities oldest surviving buildings to be found there. Nuns Green, on the other hand, was used variously as common land, quarries for brick making, a pinfold and beast markets. In 1768, an act was passed for parts of the land to be sold off to raise money for town improvements such as street lighting. It was this sale that gave us the wonderful Georgian street that today forms the top half of Friargate.

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One of the principle figures in the development of Friargate was renowned architect Joseph Pickford. Born in Warwickshire, Pickford learnt his trade in London before moving to Derby in about 1760 where he established a reputation for designing town and country houses following the fashionable Palladian style. As well as designing a number of the houses along Friargate, in 1770 he also built Number 41 for himself. Designed to be both family home and office, its elegant interiors presented a showcase to prospective clients.

After Pickford’s death the house was sold a number of times and at one point was divided into separate dwellings. In 1980 the local city council purchased the house and carried out extensive restoration. Today it is open to the public as a museum of Georgian life.

The building below used to be part of the Friargate School which closed a few years ago due to poor educational standards. The first picture is before restoration of the facade and the second picture shows the building now

A photo of another part of the school which has now been taken over by a company called Nash Interiors and is now an exclusive furniture and interiors showroom after completion of the restoration

The building below is the Friary. Now a student bar, it was for many years an hotel, however it was built in the early 18th century for Samuel Crompton whose father had established the towns first bank. Later in the century it became the residence of the Boden family, prominent mill owners and industrialists in the town. As its name suggests however, the history of the site goes back much further. Originally founded in the 13th century by the Dominican order, otherwise known as the Black Friars, it grew substantially over the years at one time having as many as 30 friars in residence. All this changed, though, on 3 January 1539 when the property was surrendered to the Crown as part of Henry VIII's dissolution of the monasteries. Little now remains of the original buildings, however a wall at the rear and parts of the cellars are thought to be medieval in origin

Although Friargate is justifiably famous as a beautiful Georgian Street it also contains a number of buildings that have survived from a much earlier period.

The first picture below shows what used to be the townhouse of the Gell family Built for them in the early years of the 17th century it was their town residence throughout the during the Civil War where it was also used as the headquarters of Sir John Gell, head of the family and also the Parliamentarian commander for the area. it continued to be lived in by the family until 1852

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The two photos below show the remains of the town's Grade II listed medieval market cross. Also known historically as the Vinegar stone, it was used during a plague epidemic in the 17th century as a market stone. Supposedly traders would leave coins in a well of vinegar in the top as it was believed this would stop the spread of the disease.

The following is a sculptural piece on Friargate representing the 1821 Reform Bill riots and the crowds that gathered in the town. As well as standing for the Riots in general it also represents a specific incident that occurred. On the opposite side of the road stood the towns gaol. Rioters broke into the gaol and freed the prisoners. Some of these prisoners were being held in the condemned cells which were underground. The sculpture represents the condemned prisoners coming up into the light and to freedom. Designed by Timothy Clapcott and installed in 2000 as part of the Sustrans cycle network development. The photos above show the 'heads' before they were restored in 2013. The pictures below show them as they are today.

Below is a small gallery of pictures of various other buildings on this magnificent street. I will aim to write more about these when time permits

George Yard

George Yard is a particularly interesting cobbled street that runs parallel to the historic Sadlergate. Today it looks largely uninteresting seemingly only providing the back entrance to the shops and businesses on Sadlergate. However George yard, sometimes known also as George lane was itself once lined with houses, businesses and pubs.
It is thought that it takes its name from the historic George Inn which was originally at the top of the street and is recorded as being a coaching inn as far back as 1648. Maxwell Craven in his invaluable book Derby Streets states that the inn was itself named after the jewel of the Order of the Garter which was dedicated to St George, England's patron saint. Even more interesting, however, he goes on to say that a previously recorded name for the street was ‘Juddekynlone’ or Judkin Lane and this was first recorded in the 1343 although there is no record of who Jud may have been.
I’m not sure when the buildings that ran it’s length were cleared or why however interesting clues survive that there were indeed buildings there.

One other interesting fact is that George Yard was the original site of the Derby Cooperative Society in 1850. This can be seen in the first photo below
‘THE now imposing Albert Street Store with its 37 branches, was begun by a few capitalless carpenters and joiners in an inconvenient out-of-the way (from the point of view of business) unpromising hayloft in Sadler Gate, 1849-50. Too low in fortune for ambition to reach them, necessity led the early store makers to rent a hayloft only accessible by a rude flight of steps. On the left-hand side of the George Yard entrance may still be seen, bricked up now, the old doorway which led to the primitive store. Underneath it was a stable. On turning the corner into George Yard there is now a public lodging-house, with a balcony in the upper part. That is where the store was.’
Excerpt from the Jubilee history of the Derby Cooperative Society 1850 - 1900

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Gower Street

Another of the streets that come off Babington Lane is the one now known as Gower Street. . Originally called Blood Alley the street was later renamed after William Leveson-Gower MP sometime around 1850. (This is according to Maxwell Craven, however I have been unable to find any information about Leveson-Gower). The street has a number of interesting buildings. At its corner with Babington Lane is the continuation of the Hunters buildingFurther along the street is a fine set set of houses and next to them a derelict Presbyterian church of 1868 more photos of which can be seen in the Green Lane section. On the opposite side of the road is an extremely large office block called Prosperity House - this is now in the process of being converted into 147 apartments.

Green Lane

This street appears to have developed piecemeal over the last 500 years. First alluded to in 1510 it is properly recorded in a description of Newland Lane alias Green Lane in 1577. By 1610 the street had begun to see some development and this continued gradually over the succeeding years. And included a number of large houses including Abbots Hill House and Greenhill House. The latter of these is thought to have been built in the late 1600s however by 1829 it had been substantially rebuilt and had been converted into Derby's first Lunatic Asylum, a privately run institution overseen by Thomas Fisher. It seems that in setting up this institution the owner sold off a large part of the pleasure grounds and these were converted into allotments to feed the growing population of the town. These, however, had been lost to developers within 20-30 years and are now covered by the surrounding streets.

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The street has suffered of late from the downturn in the economy and poor investment. There are a number of empty buildings that require sensitive attention, particularly the hippodrome. Recent developments in the area such as the new Condor Apartments on Victoria Street and the Events venue being built on Macklin Street, may help to provide some much needed regeneration to the area

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The beautiful building above was once College Chambers but is now a hotel. Those in the n the following pictures are the Derby College of Art. This beautiful example of Victorian Gothic architecture dates from 1876 with additions of 1899, and was designed by the company of F W Waller of Waller and Son. Sadly the building is now closed and awaiting a buyer.

Below are some other images taken on the street

Derby Hippodrome (below)

Much has been written about the Derby Hippodrome in recent years, sadly most of it negative. Before I mention that though, here is a brief history.
Opened as a Variety Theatre in 1914 the building was designed by Newcastle architects Marshall & Tweedy and had a capacity of 2000 split over 3 levels. The theatre was able to attract a stellar line-up of acts which included George Formby, Marie Lloyd and Gracie Fields. It is even claimed that Bud Flanagan composed the song Underneath The Arches whilst performing here. Although it was successful for a few decades, however, the rise of 'moving pictures' in the first half of the 20th century meant that this success could not be maintained. So, in September 1930 it was converted into a cinema which it remained for another 20 years.
Then, in 1950, the building had a renaissance and was turned back into a live theatre venue, playing host to numerous acts of international fame including Tommy Cooper, Ronnie Corbett and Morcambe and Wise.
Sadly this was not to last and it closed again in 1959, partly due to the rise in television. The building remained boarded up until it was purchased by Mecca and converted into a Bingo Hall, remaining in this capacity until its closure in 2007
Shortly after it was purchased by a London Developer, Christopher Anthony, who did not appear to the best interests of the building in mind as he wanted to convert it into a multi-story car park – something not popular with the people of the city, Not long after, whilst allegedly carrying out some remedial work to the roof, a substantial part of the building collapsed and was rendered unsafe. Since then there has been a serious arson attack and the building remains partly derelict with most of its beautiful internal décor stripped away
There is currently no plan in place for this iconic building. An organisation, the Hippodrome Trust is seeking to restore the building for use as a theatre but its current owners, a London bank, appear content to wait for it to fall down

Below is an Old Presbyterian Church. For many years this functioned as various pubs and bars. Closed for many years it has recently been converted into apartments

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