A photographic and historical view of the city of Derby and its surroundings

Mark Miley

Derby In Pictures

A photographic and historical view of the city of Derby and its surroundings

Mark Miley

Derby In Pictures

City Centre Streets S-Z

Sadlergate

This street, which takes its name from the leather workers who would have lived and traded here in times gone by, is one of the oldest streets in the city. It is likely that it would have been known to the Vikings who settled here, hence the word gate in its title. It was first recorded in English in 1368, however a Latin recording of it goes back to the middle of the 13th century when it was home to a Lawrence the Saddler and was recorded as vicum sellariorum.

Although today much of the street appears to be Georgian or Victorian a glance at the rear of many of the buildings shows a very different picture. Rather than rebuild whole properties it was often just the façades that were altered leaving the pitched roofs and gables of much older buildings intact. As a result a number of the properties date from the early part of the 17th century. This can be clearly seen in the views from the cathedral tower elsewhere on this site.
Although narrow the width of the street represents the dimensions of a major thoroughfare in the medieval period and remained open to traffic until 1963 when it became the first street in the town to be pedestrianised. today the Street forms part of the Cathedral Quarter and is home to a specialist and boutique shops and cafes.

The Old Bell Hotel, listed Grade II, is one of Derby's very old pubs, it being built in about 1680 century as a coaching inn by the Meynell family. It was later extended by landlord John Campion with the addition of a grand ballroom in 1776 and it also contains one of the finest 17th century staircases surviving in the city.

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The picture above shows The Shakespeare public house. A pub has stood on this site since the end of the 17th century, originally called the Ostrich the name was changed to the Shakespeare about a century later. The current building is listed Grade II and is thought to date from the first half of the 18th century. It has been closed for the past few years but has recently undergone a major refit and reopened a few weeks ago

The Strand Arcade was built in 1880 to join Sadlergate to the Strand which had been created following the culverting of the Markeaton Brook two years earlier. Designed by the architect John Somes Story it took as its inspiration the Burlington Arcade in London.

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The building above is of interest for two reasons. The first is a sign for Sadlergate Bridge. Prior to the culverting of Markeaton Brook it used to flow along the end of Sadlergate and this was the site of one of the numerous bridges which used to cross it. the second point of interest is the archway to the left of the picture. This is the entrance to George Yard, a detailed description of which can be found on the City Centre Streets E-H

Sitwell Street

With the development of the land around Babington House a number of streets were pitched and Sitwell Street is one of those. It can be seen originally on a map of 1826 it was once a much more substantial street than it is today, lined with terraced houses along its length. These were all swept away and today only the Sitwell tavern remains. The land opposite the images in the pictures below is now a large car park and of little interest. The street is now just the pub and the apartments seen in the other pictures - this, however, is the rear of them, the front façades are much less interesting. A history of the pub can be found in the pubs and inns section of the website

St James's Street

Originally a narrow thoroughfare known as St James’s Lane the street reached its current width when it was completely rebuilt in the 1870s. It takes its name from St James’s Priory, a religious house that had been established since the Saxon era. It had a chapel that was donated by King Stephen in about 1140 and a century later a hospital was added where the monks cared for the poor and unwell. At the West end of the lane was a bridge over the Markeaton Brook. This was controlled by the monks and probably provided them with an income.Following the dissolution in the 16th century the land was given to the Corporation of the town. Nothing now survives of the religious institution. Between 1869 and 1878 the Derby Hotel and Improvement Company funded the complete rebuilding of the street which included a substantial hotel – the St James’s. Today the street is mainly home to estate and letting agents

Through an often overlooked archway on St James Street can be find a fascinating collection of buildings. Currently much of the site is used as a carpark which means that the rear of the surviving streets are visible. The site also contains a beautiful building known today as the tram sheds. This is actually a misnomer as the building was in fact used as stabling for the old St James' Hotel and never housed trams. The building was later taken over by Newton and Co before finally being abandoned for many years. It has recently been given an extensive restoration project with the aim of creating a bar and restaurant although a company to run it has not yet been found

St John's Terrace

This small, but very beautiful private road can be found just off Bridge Street. It takes it's name from the church which it faces across the Markeaton Brook

St Mary's Gate

St Mary's Gate is today arguably one of the finest streets in the city, lined with a great many historic and beautiful buildings. According to Maxwell Craven the street was first recorded in the early 12th century as 'vico qui dicitur Sancte Marie' which translates as 'the street which is called St Mary's'.Although it has not existed for many centuries there was originally a church of St Mary's which stood at the top of the street opposite the current cathedralA walk down the street leads past a number of solicitors offices and a building that was once the Court of Probate. Further down is the luxurious Cathedral Quarter Hotel. Built at the end of the 19th century by John Somes Story, this Grade 2 listed building was originally County Offices before being taken over by the police in 1996 as a Police Museum. Following its closure it was beautifully restored to become the hotel that it is today. On the opposite side of the road is a similar looking building which was built about 10 years later and was, until quite recently, home to Council offices. It is now being converted into high-end apartments

At the end of the street can be found one of the most important buildings in the city – the Shire Hall. Erected in 1660 and listed as Grade 1 it is in the classical style with arched windows, parapets and pediment's. It has served a number of uses over the centuries but today is the Crown Court, A huge extension was constructed to the rear. It is believed to be the setting of Hetty Sorrel's trial in George Elliot's novel "Adam Bede".

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The final building of interest is on the corner of the street and features a large coat of arms on the side. This today forms a part of the Crown Court and was once the Judges lodgings for when the Assizes would come to town. Many believe that this is the reason for the coat of arms however this is not correct. The building, was in fact originally a public House known as the Kings Arms & County Hotel and the arms are those of William III after who the pub was named

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St Peter's Street

This street, which bisects the city and could be considered its main street, approximately follows the prehistoric north-south trackway. The street takes its name from the ancient church of St Peter's which was founded by at least 1086. Despite it's great age, the street has few buildings of any great age surviving, although some fine buildings have been erected in the past 150 years - a tribute to it's ongoing importance as a centre for commerce within the town.

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The building above, listed Grade 2, was erected in 1912 by the Boots company on the corner of St Peter's Street and East Street. Venetian windows, Stuccoed gables and niches containing statues of Derby worthies including Florence Nightingale and William Hutton, give the building a very elegant appearance.

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Designed in 1930 by R Lutyens, son of the renowned architect Sir Edwin, this grand Art Deco style building, above, was built for Marks and Spencers, who occupied it until moving to larger premises in 2007. It is now occupied by Tesco

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This grand building on the corner of the street is the premises of the HSBC bank. Built in a classical style in 1910 it replaced the town house of Joseph Strutt. Known as Thorntree House, Strutt opened it to the public as an Art Gallery and Museum - the first in the town. Interestingly the narrow road to the side of the building is known as Thorntree Lane and is one of the few surviving Medieval Streets in the town. This would have been the width of many of the streets in the town before their widening in the 19th century.

Another example of an historically important building is Ryans Bar, hidden away and largely unnoticed it can be found next to the church of St Peters. It is in fact an early 17th century building featuring a rare Dutch Gable. Opened originally as the Green Man it retained that name until 1995 when it was refurbished and renamed.
The building that is now Waterstones bookshop was built in 1898 to the designs of John Wills for Councillor G E Franklin He was the owner of the Public Benefit Boot & Shoe Company and this was the Derby Branch of his company. The building is actually called Babington Buildings after the large Jacobean house that stood on the site until 1897 and was surrounded by 13 acres of parkland and flower beds.

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At the bottom end of St peter's Street on it's corner with Victoria Street and the CornMarket stands the elegant building below which was built in 1933 for Burton's Men's tailors. Founded in 1903 in Chesterfield by Sir Montague Maurice Burton the company grew rapidly over the next couple of decades and had over 400 stores as well as mills and factories by 1929. Initially the company rented many of its shops, however in 1923 they began to purchase the freehold and to build new premises, often in the Art deco style. Montague had four children and it was frequently his children who laid the ground level foundation stones and this is the case with the Derby store as can be seen below. Sadly the main photo shows the store as it is being cleared out, closed due to the company being sold to an online retailer. The shop has recently opened as a chicken restaurant 

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St Peter's Churchyard

This short but interesting road joins St Peter's street with the adjacent Green Lane. Originally a narrow alley way surrounding the ancient Church from which it gets its name, it now only incorporates the single street. Prior to the 1880s the side opposite the church was lined with half timbered Alms House, part of the Liversage bequest, however in 1880 these were demolished in order to widen the road

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The picture below shows an old sign for Thurmin and Malin. This was once one of the finest department stores in the city. The drapery business opened in St Peter's Street, Derby in 1879. eventually expanding into this property on St Peter's Churchyard. At is peak the firm offered women's clothing, hosiery and haberdashery. as well as running an Undertakers. Despite its success it closed in 1970 much to the surprise of the people of the town

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The fine Grade 2 listed building below, built in the late 19th Century of red brick and terracotta, was once the combined home for the County Court and the Inland Revenue. In 1992 it was converted into offices, a function it maintains today.

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The building shown in the following two photos was for nearly 300 years the home of the Derby Grammar School. Following the issuing of a Royal Charter in 1554 by Queen Mary the school was established in the 16th century building below, although it is believed to be built on 12th century foundations. Over the years Derby School educated a number of Derby’s most famous residents including, John Flamstead, Joseph Wright and the Rev John Cotton, founder of Boston US.

The school eventually moved to new premises at St Helens House and the building put to other uses. In 1952 it was given a Grade II* listing and in the 1990s became a heritage centre and café. In recent years it has been transformed into a hairdressing salon, although a great deal of conservation work has apparently been undertaken by the new owners

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Vernon Street

This rather beautiful street was laid out between 1826 and 1828 as part of the development that eventually included the new county gaol. This was in use between 1843 and 1919 and then for next decade it was used a military prison. The early years of the prison saw a large number of public executions outside the walls at the top of the street. Popular affairs that could attract crowds of up to 40000 people, 'The executions outside the gaol at the bottom of Vernon Street attracted sideshows, pedlars, acrobats and other entertainers. People even came by train for what some regarded as a good ‘day out’. Local traders selling souvenirs did a roaring trade; there were even gingerbread effigies of the prisoner to be executed. The viler the crime and notorious the prisoner, the larger the crowds.' (Derby Trail)According to Maxwell Craven he street is allegedly named after Lord Vernon of Kinderton, resident of Sudbury Hall although it is unclear why.Today the street is mostly home to doctors surgeries, chemists and offices but some of it's former grandeur can still be seen


Victoria Street

Up until the early part of the 19th century the Markeaton Brook had remained an open waterway through the middle of Derby, however this, along with the still extant medieval street plan and narrow streets was restricting the growth of the town. The solution was to culvert the brook beginning with Victoria Street in 1839, and Albert Street in 1848. The scheme was eventually extended to incorporate the area subsequently known as the Strand in 1878. The creation of these new streets enabled the building of some extremely fine buildings. A large area of the Street is currently being redeveloped and this is shown in the final set of pictures
Originally the offices of the Derby tramway Company, the building below, on the North side of Victoria Street was designed in 1903 by Alexander MacPherson and built by Messrs Ford & Co. After the demise of the tram company the building had a number of uses, including offices for a bus company and was for a time, the cities main post office as can be seen in the picture below. In recent years the building became a restaurant, a comedy club and now unfortunately appears to be standing empty

This large building in the next few pictures, part stone and part stucco was put up in 1839 to the designs of R Wallace and was originally the Royal Hotel and the Atheneum Rooms. No longer a hotel, the building provides retail and office space as well as premises for the beautiful appointed Cosy Club

The gracefully curving building in the photo below was built for the Ranbys Dept store in the 1960s to the designs of Evans, Cartwright &Woollatt. In the 1970s it was taken over by Debenhams and was the largest store in the city. The later expansion of the Derbion shopping centre resulted in the relocation of Debenhams and left this building largely empty for many years. 

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A couple of years ago work finally began to completely redevelop this whole area and the next set of photos show the site including the attached church being cleared. The final 2 pictures show completion of the first phase, The Condor Apartments and adjoining public space. Over the next few years the site will include a 3500 capacity events space, a hotel, offices and more apartments

The Wardwick

The Wardwick is arguably one of the oldest street names in the city possibly dating back over 1000 years to a Saxon farmer named Walda.Soon after arriving in the area the Saxons established a settlement by the side of the Markeaton Brook at what is now the site of St Werburghs Church. Nearby, a settler named Walda established a dairy farm, known as a Wick in the language of the day. Over time Wanda's Wick was corrupted, being recorded as Walwick Street in 1085 and eventually becoming today's Wardwick.
Today the street is lined by some of the grandest buildings in the city including the lovely building below which is listed Grade II and stands on the corner of Wardwick and the Strand. It was for many years the home of the Refuge Assurance company, later becoming a wool shop , however it is now the Revolution Vodka Bar

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The old Derby Library can be seen in in the next gallery of photos. This was built in 1879 to the designs of the architect R K Freeman of Bolton in a red brick Gothic style. It was extended on its left side in 1915 in a similar style and again some years later. This latter addition forms what is today Derby Museum and Art Gallery which holds the worlds largest collection of Joseph Wright Paintings. The library sadly closed a few years ago and is currently used as a very beautiful wedding and events venue. However, I believe that the long term plan is for this to be the Joseph Wright centre, housing his paintings and drawings. Fortunately much of the beautiful interior survives. The library was largely created due to the funding and drive of Michael Thomas Bass of the famous Burton Brewing family and Member of Parliament for Derby 1848-83. A philanthropist in the great Victorian tradition Bass contributed to the building of the library and his statue now stands in Museum Square next to the building he helped to create. The statue is made of bronze and was created in 1885 by the sculptor J. E. Boehm and stands on a stone plinth.

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The Mechanics Institute was formed in 1825 by, amongst others, the industrialist Joseph Strutt, with the aim of promoting the spread of knowledge among the people of Derby through a range of activities including lectures, concerts, and displays and was particularly aimed at the working classes of the town. Their first exhibition was held in 1839 and they also had regular guest speakers including a visit by Charles Dickens. The Institute moved to new purpose built premises in 1881 and it is this grand building that can be seen in the picture to the right. Sadly the building has now been converted into a pub, Currently Revolution de Cuba, although the design does show the grandeur of the interior quite well.

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The red brick building in the photo above is the Wardwick tavern. Originally built as a private townhouse for the Alsop family in about 1708 it was later acquired by local Alton’s Brewery who used it as a boardroom for their directors. Alton’s was later taken over by Ind Coope who used the building as their headquarters before converting it into a pub in 1969. Fortunately Ind Coope saw fit to preserve much of the interior including a wonderful stone fireplace.
In 1842 the Markeaton Brook which used to flow through the centre of town, burst its banks in what has become known as the Great Flood. On the outside of the Tavern, to the left of the door, is a metal plate which indicates the height that the water reached – 4’6". A more detailed history can be found in the Pubs, Inns and Taverns section of this website.

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The building above was once the home of the Reverend Roseingrave Macklin for whom the nearby Macklin Street is named. More information about him can be found at the wonderful Photo-sleuth Blog

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The building below is named Jacobean House. Originally called Gisborne House after the family it was built for over 400 years ago, it is believed to be the oldest brick built building in the city. It is thought that it was built in 1611 to designs by the renowned architect Robert Smythson who was also responsible for the rather grander Hardwick and Wollaton Halls.

Originally substantially larger approximately half of the house was demolished in the 1850s to make way for the construction of Becket Street. Throughout much of the 20th century it was an elegant cafe before becoming an estate agent in the 1980s. Since then it has been a restaurant, a games cafe and, following a few years of vacant neglect, the upper floors are being converted into high quality student apartments whilst the ground floor will be used for retail of some sort

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Well Street

Unsurprisingly Well Street takes its name from the ancient well that can be found at the bottom of the street. This is the well of St Alkmund, the Northumbrian Martyr and son of the overthrown King, Eardwulf who lived around 800 AD. Following his murder he was initially interred in Shrewsbury but was later moved to the settlement of Northworthy, later Derby in what became St Alkmunds Church. The first record of the well was in 1190 at which time it was in rural surroundings in what became St Helen's Park, however the area experienced massive development from 1819 onwards with Well Street first appearing on a map in 1852

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